Frequently Asked Questions

Yes, in many cases resin bound can be laid directly over an existing surface, provided it is structurally sound and level. Cracked, sunken, or unstable surfaces need remedial work first. A site survey will confirm whether your existing drive is a suitable base or needs attention before installation.

Yes. Resin bound is a fully permeable surface, so rainwater drains through the material itself rather than running off the edges. This makes it suitable for most residential properties and means it meets SUDS requirements without needing additional drainage in most cases. See Permeable Driveways for more detail.

Yes. A correctly installed resin bound surface on a sound sub-base handles daily car traffic without issue. It resists tyre scuffing and point loads from standard vehicles. Heavy vehicles such as vans or skips can cause indentation if the base is not specified to handle that load.

No, they are different products. Resin bound mixes aggregate and resin together before laying, creating a permeable, smooth, stone-encapsulated surface. Resin bonded applies resin to the base first, then scatters loose stone on top, leaving a rougher texture and a non-permeable finish that can shed stones over time.

Most failures trace back to an inadequate sub-base. If the base moves, settles, or holds water, the resin layer above will crack or delaminate. UV-stable resin grades resist surface yellowing; non-UV-stable products discolour over time. Poor mixing ratios or laying in cold, wet conditions also cause premature failure.

An unsuitable base will cause the resin surface to crack, sink, or separate within months. The resin layer itself cannot compensate for movement below it. Remedying this after installation means breaking out the surface and starting again, which costs significantly more than addressing the base correctly at the outset.

Most block paving driveways come in at around £100 per m², depending on area size, sub-base depth required, block type and any drainage work needed. A site survey before work starts gives you a fixed quote covering all those variables.

Sinking almost always traces back to an inadequate sub-base or poor compaction during the original installation. Water pooling beneath the surface erodes the bedding layer over time, causing blocks to shift. On Cambridge’s clay-heavy ground, poor drainage accelerates this significantly. A survey can confirm whether relay or full reinstatement is needed.

A correctly installed block paving driveway with a compacted MOT Type 1 sub-base typically lasts 20 to 30 years before full replacement is needed. Periodic re-sanding of joints and sealing every few years extends that lifespan. Poor sub-base preparation is the main reason driveways fail well before that point.

Permeable block paving does not require planning permission for front driveways in England under Permitted Development rules. Impermeable block paving does require permission unless you direct run-off to a lawn or border. If your property is listed or in a conservation area, separate consent applies regardless of surface type.

Yes. Permeable block paving uses wider joints filled with grit rather than kiln-dried sand, allowing water to drain through the surface into a granular sub-base below. This meets Sustainable Drainage System (SuDS) requirements and avoids the need for planning permission on front driveways. A permeable driveway option is worth considering if drainage is a priority.

For most residential driveways, 60mm or 80mm concrete blocks in a herringbone pattern offer the best load distribution and resistance to surface creep. Clay pavers suit period properties and hold colour longer. Tumbled or textured finishes reduce slip risk. The right choice depends on load requirements, kerb height and the look you want.

Repairs work when cracking or surface damage is localised and the sub-base beneath is still solid. If the base has failed, water has got underneath, or more than roughly a third of the surface is affected, a full replacement gives a better long-term result. A site survey will confirm which applies to your drive. See Driveway Repairs & Restoration for patch and repair options.

Resurfacing suits a driveway where the existing tarmac is sound but worn or weathered on top. If there is sinking, cracking that follows a pattern, or soft spots underfoot, the sub-base has likely failed and needs excavating before a new surface goes down. A local contractor can assess this during a site survey before any work is quoted.

The most common causes are sub-base failure, water penetrating the surface and freezing, tree root movement, or the original tarmac being laid too thin. Surface cracks let water in, which accelerates the damage. Left unaddressed, small cracks widen and the base beneath softens, turning a resurfacing job into a full replacement.

Sinking usually means the sub-base has compressed or washed out, often because of poor drainage or an undersized stone layer when the drive was first laid. Clay-heavy ground that shifts seasonally is another common cause in Cambridgeshire. Resurfacing over a sunken base will not fix it; the sub-base needs to be rebuilt first.

Yes, provided drainage is designed into the job from the start. A sloped drive can be graded so water runs to a channel or soakaway rather than pooling. If drainage is currently poor, adding a channel drain at the base of the slope solves the problem. See Driveway Drainage & Channel Drains for more detail.

Tarmac is widely used for residential driveways. Domestic-grade tarmac is laid at a finer texture than road surfacing, giving a neater finish that suits a house frontage. It handles standard car and van loads without issue and is one of the faster surfaces to install, which reduces disruption.

Loose gravel will migrate without proper edging and a stable sub-base, but both can be installed to contain it. Solid edging boards or kerbing along every boundary hold the stones back. Choosing a smaller angular gravel, such as 10mm or 14mm crushed stone, also reduces scatter compared with large rounded pebbles.

A well-built gravel driveway needs at least 100mm of compacted MOT Type 1 sub-base beneath the gravel layer. On softer ground, 150mm is more appropriate. Skipping or thinning the sub-base is the most common reason driveways sink, so the depth is agreed at the survey stage before any work begins.

Soft or uneven ground needs excavation to a stable level, followed by a compacted hardcore or MOT Type 1 sub-base. In very soft spots, a geotextile membrane is laid first to prevent the sub-base mixing with the soil below. The site survey identifies how much excavation is needed before the quote is issued.

Gravel drains freely because water passes straight through the stones and into the sub-base below. This makes it one of the most naturally permeable driveway surfaces available and means it generally meets permitted development drainage rules without additional drainage channels. Heavy clay ground beneath may need extra drainage provision.

Expect to rake the surface back level once or twice a year and top up the gravel every few years as stones are displaced or compacted down. A weed-control membrane laid beneath the gravel reduces weeding significantly. Compared with block paving or resin, ongoing maintenance is low-cost and straightforward.

Gravel suits older and period properties well because it looks natural and avoids the hard, uniform appearance of tarmac or block paving. Cotswold, flint, and slate chippings all complement traditional brickwork. It also avoids the planning constraints that sometimes apply to hard impermeable surfaces on front gardens.

Resurfacing works when the existing base is structurally sound, no significant sinking, heaving or crumbling sub-base. Surface-level cracks, worn finish or minor potholes are usually fine to resurface over. If the base has shifted, failed drainage has undermined it, or large sections move underfoot, a full replacement is the more reliable fix. A site survey will confirm which applies.

Yes, when the base is intact. Resurfacing costs considerably less than full excavation and replacement, and it restores appearance and function in a fraction of the time. If the sub-base has failed, resurfacing only delays the inevitable, so the value depends entirely on what lies beneath the current surface.

Tarmac overlay is typically the lowest-cost resurfacing route, provided the existing base needs no remedial work. Gravel is also low-cost but suits specific situations. The total price shifts quickly once base repairs or drainage work are needed, so the cheapest finish is not always the cheapest job overall.

Most driveway resurfacing jobs in Cambridge come in at around £60 per m², depending on area size, chosen material and whether any base repairs are needed first. A site survey gives you a firm quote covering all elements before any work begins.

Yes, if base problems are not addressed first. A new surface laid over a failing sub-base will crack, sink or separate within months. Any reputable contractor will identify base issues during a survey and recommend repairs before resurfacing, rather than covering the problem over.

A sound base feels firm underfoot with no rocking slabs, no visible sinking and no signs of water pooling after rain. If sections flex, crumble at the edges or have dropped noticeably, the sub-base likely needs attention before a new surface is applied. A site survey will assess this directly.

Usually yes, if the widening means more than 5 square metres of new hardstanding that is not permeable. Under permitted development rules, non-permeable surfaces over that threshold require planning permission. Permeable materials such as resin bound or block paving with open joints typically avoid that requirement. Check with your local planning authority before work starts.

Yes, adding more hardstanding increases surface water runoff unless drainage is designed into the extension. A permeable surface or a channel drain at the edge can manage this. The survey arranged before work covers drainage requirements, so the right solution is specified before any ground is broken. See Driveway Drainage & Channel Drains for more detail.

In most cases yes, though an exact match depends on the existing material, its age and whether the same product is still available. Block paving and resin bound surfaces are the easiest to colour-match closely. Older tarmac or concrete often shows a visible join. A site survey will confirm what level of match is realistic before you commit.

A standard car bay needs roughly 2.4 metres wide by 4.8 metres deep, so even a 1-metre strip added along the full length of a 5-metre drive creates a usable second space. The actual gain depends on your boundary, the dropped kerb width and any side access you need to keep clear.

Yes. The extension is built as a separate section alongside or in front of the existing drive, with its own sub-base and surface. The existing driveway stays in place unless it is already in poor condition. A site survey will confirm whether the current surface is sound enough to leave untouched.

It may do if the widening extends beyond the current dropped kerb footprint. Widening the vehicle crossing onto the public highway requires a separate application to the local highway authority. The survey covers kerb requirements, and our partners can advise on whether a dropped kerb extension needs to be arranged alongside the driveway work.

No planning permission is needed for a permeable driveway on a front garden. Permitted development rules allow front driveways without consent provided the surface drains water naturally rather than directing run-off onto the highway. Impermeable surfaces over 5 square metres do require permission, so choosing a permeable option keeps you clear of that requirement.

Rainwater passes through the surface layer and into a compacted sub-base of open-graded aggregate, which holds the water temporarily and releases it slowly into the ground below. The surface itself, whether resin bound, permeable block paving, or gravel, contains gaps or voids that prevent pooling. A correctly sized sub-base depth is critical to the system working.

The main downsides are higher upfront cost than standard tarmac, the need for periodic clearing of debris from the surface voids, and reduced suitability on very heavy clay or high water-table ground. Gravel can scatter onto paths and roads. Resin bound and permeable block paving largely avoid the loose-surface issue but cost more to install.

It depends on your soil type, budget, and the look you want. Resin bound gravel suits most residential properties and gives a smooth, neat finish. Permeable block paving suits period or traditional homes. Gravel is the lowest-cost entry point. A site survey will confirm which sub-base depth and surface suits your specific ground conditions.

Most permeable driveways in Cambridge come in at around £60 per m², depending on size, surface material, and the sub-base depth required. Resin bound finishes sit at the higher end; gravel at the lower end. Excavation depth and any additional drainage work affect the final figure.

Generally no. Permeable driveways require a deeper, open-graded sub-base and more careful installation, which adds cost over standard tarmac or concrete. However, they can save money long-term by avoiding drainage channel installation and potential planning fees that an impermeable surface over 5 square metres would trigger.

If water pools on your driveway after rain, runs toward your house, or soaks into a neighbour’s property, a channel drain is likely needed. Other signs include eroded edges, staining on the garage floor, or a surface that has no visible outlet for rainwater. A site survey will confirm the right solution.

Channel drains are available in widths from around 100 mm upward and can be cut to length, so they suit most driveway widths. They work with block paving, tarmac, resin bound, concrete, and gravel surfaces. The grating and body are selected to match the surface material and finish.

Yes. Driveway channel drains are load-rated for regular car traffic, typically Class A15 or B125 to BS EN 1433. The grating material, cast iron, galvanised steel, or polymer, is chosen to match the expected load. Correct bedding in concrete ensures the unit does not rock or crack under wheel loads.

A channel drain connects to an existing surface water drain, a soakaway, or a rainwater pipe depending on what is available on site. It must not connect to the foul sewer. The outlet is usually at one end of the channel run, though side outlets are possible where the layout requires it.

In most cases, yes. The channel outlet is sized to match standard 110 mm drainage pipe, which connects to most existing soakaways and surface water runs. If the existing pipe is in poor condition or at the wrong depth, a short section of new pipework may be needed, this is assessed during the site survey.

A cracked or sunken grating can often be swapped out without disturbing the channel body. If the channel body itself is cracked, has dropped out of level, or the concrete surround has failed, replacement is more reliable than patching. A survey will show which applies, repair is always considered before a full replacement is recommended.

Yes, you need permission from your local highway authority before any kerb on a public road is lowered. The pavement and kerb are highway land, so the council must approve the work and usually appoint its own contractor to carry out the kerb-lowering element. Skipping this step can result in the work being removed at your cost.

No. Driving over an unmodified kerb and pavement is illegal and damages the highway surface. It can also void your vehicle insurance if an incident occurs. A properly constructed dropped kerb with a reinforced crossing is the only lawful way to create a vehicle access point from a public road.

Most dropped kerb installations come in at around £183, depending on the number of kerb units, pavement depth, sub-base condition, and whether a drainage channel is needed. Council application fees are separate and vary by authority.

In most cases, yes, but the crossing width and reinforcement spec need to match your vehicle. A standard car needs a minimum 2.7-metre-wide crossing; a van or SUV typically needs 3 metres or more. A site survey confirms the right width, gradient, and sub-base depth for your specific vehicle and driveway layout.

Yes. Utility services, gas, water, electricity, telecoms, often run beneath the pavement. A survey identifies their positions before excavation begins, so the work can be planned around them. Striking a service without prior checks causes delays, costs, and safety risks.

The affected area depends on your driveway width and the existing kerb height. Typically, two to four kerb units are lowered and the pavement behind them is excavated and re-laid with a reinforced sub-base to carry vehicle weight. A grass verge between the pavement and road may also need to be removed and made up.

The right edging depends on your surface, kerb height and how the drive meets the road or path. Concrete kerb is the most robust for tarmac and block paving. Flexible plastic edge restraint suits resin-bound and block paving on flat ground. A ramped concrete kerb is needed where vehicles cross a footway. A site survey will confirm which option suits your ground conditions and surface.

Yes, when it is correctly haunched and set on a stable sub-base. A properly installed concrete kerb resists the outward pressure that vehicle loads place on the surface edge. Without that restraint, block paving fans out, tarmac edges fracture, and gravel disperses. The key is adequate haunching depth and a compacted base beneath the kerb.

Longevity comes from three things: a compacted sub-base under the kerb, adequate concrete haunching on both faces, and correct drainage so water does not undermine the base. A site survey before work starts checks ground conditions and drainage, so the specification matches what is actually under your driveway rather than a generic assumption.

Most edging projects come in at around £20 per metre, varying with the total run length, kerb material (concrete, natural stone, or edge restraint), excavation depth, sub-base condition, and whether drainage channels need to be incorporated. A dropped kerb at the highway boundary adds cost because it requires separate highway authority involvement.

DIY edging is possible for decorative garden borders, but driveway kerbing requires accurate line, level and concrete haunching to hold under vehicle loads. Getting the level wrong by even a few millimetres causes pooling or a trip hazard. Mixing and placing haunching concrete correctly also takes practice. Most homeowners find the risk of a costly redo outweighs any saving.

Yes, when the underlying cause is also addressed. Edging alone stops lateral spread, but if poor drainage or a weak sub-base caused the original failure, those need correcting at the same time. A site survey checks both, so the repair specification tackles the cause rather than just the visible symptom.

Recurring sinking or cracking in the same spot almost always means the sub-base beneath that area has failed. Water infiltration, poor compaction during the original installation, or unstable ground are the usual causes. Patching the surface without addressing the base will produce the same result again. A proper repair excavates the affected area and rebuilds the foundation.

Repair works when damage is localised and the sub-base is sound across most of the driveway. Replacement makes more sense when the base has failed widely, the surface is crumbling in multiple areas, or the driveway is old enough that patching one section will leave the rest failing shortly after. A site survey will confirm which applies.

A proper repair should address the sub-base, not just the surface. If the base is soft, waterlogged, or poorly compacted, resurfacing over it will fail again. The affected area is excavated, the sub-base is rebuilt and compacted, then the surface material is reinstated to match.

In most cases, only the damaged section needs attention. Isolated cracking, a sunken patch, or a single failing area can be repaired without disturbing the rest of the driveway. If the base failure extends further than it appears on the surface, the repair scope may need to widen once excavation begins.

An exact match depends on the material and how much the existing surface has weathered. Block paving repairs using the same block size and colour blend well. Tarmac and resin repairs are harder to make invisible, particularly on older surfaces. A contractor will advise on the likely finish before work starts.

A repair that addresses the sub-base properly should last many years. One that only patches the surface without fixing the underlying cause will typically fail within one to two seasons. Longevity depends on the quality of the base rebuild, the material used, and whether drainage issues are resolved at the same time.

Usually no, but it depends on the surface material. Permitted development rules allow a new driveway without planning permission if the surface is permeable, or if run-off drains to a lawn or border rather than the road. Impermeable surfaces over 5 square metres on a front garden do require permission.

Yes. Under permitted development rules, any new front driveway must either use a permeable surface or direct water to a soakaway or planted area. Discharging surface water directly onto the public highway is not permitted. A proper drainage solution keeps the installation compliant from day one.

Resin bound, permeable block paving, and gravel all allow water to drain through the surface itself, satisfying permitted development rules without extra drainage infrastructure. Tarmac and standard block paving are impermeable, so they need a channel drain or soakaway to remain compliant. See permeable driveway options for more detail.

Resin bound gravel is a popular choice for new builds: it is permeable, low maintenance, and gives a clean finish that suits modern architecture. Block paving suits more traditional styles and is easy to repair section by section. Tarmac is the most cost-effective option where budget is the priority.

Resin bound and block paving both handle daily traffic well, resist oil staining, and are straightforward to sweep or jet-wash. Tarmac is equally durable and quick to lay. Loose gravel is the least practical for daily use as it migrates underfoot and can be tracked indoors.

It depends on your turning space, gradient, and how many vehicles you park. A site survey before work starts checks all of these, advises on layout, surface choice, and drainage, and confirms whether a dropped kerb or access works are needed before installation begins.

Isolated cracks or a single sunken area usually point to a repair. If more than a third of the surface is cracked, crumbling, or uneven, replacement is more cost-effective than patching. A site survey will confirm which option makes sense once the sub-base condition is checked.

Pooling water means the surface has no fall toward a drain, the drainage channel is blocked, or the sub-base has settled unevenly. Left alone, standing water works into the base layer, accelerates cracking, and can undermine the edging. A drainage assessment during the survey will identify the cause. See Driveway Drainage & Channel Drains for more.

Yes. Small cracks let water in, which freezes, expands, and widens them. A sinking area puts uneven load on surrounding sections, spreading the damage. What starts as a minor repair becomes a full replacement if ignored for a season or two.

Most driveway installations in Cambridge come in at around £60 per m², depending on size, chosen surface, and whether excavation, drainage, or a dropped kerb is needed. A full quote covering all those elements is arranged after a site survey.

The biggest factors are overall area, depth of excavation needed, sub-base condition, surface material, and drainage requirements. A sloping plot or a shared-access arrangement adds complexity. Kerb work and edging are quoted separately if required.

A full quote covers excavation, sub-base preparation, drainage provision, the chosen surface material, and edging. Dropped kerb work or drainage channels are included if they form part of the scope. Nothing is added after the survey without your agreement.

Surface choice, colour, and edging detail all affect how the finished driveway sits with the property. Block paving and resin bound surfaces offer the widest range of colours and patterns. Tarmac and gravel are plainer but can be finished with brick or stone edging to complement the house.

Any surface laid on a correctly compacted sub-base handles standard car and van loads. Tarmac and block paving are well suited to repeated loading and freeze-thaw cycles. Resin bound surfaces are UV-stable and drain freely. The sub-base depth is the main factor in long-term performance.

Yes, but a slope needs careful drainage planning to prevent water running toward the house or highway. Block paving and tarmac can both be laid to a gradient. Gravel is less suitable on steep slopes as it migrates downhill. The survey will assess the fall and recommend the appropriate drainage solution.

Yes. Cambridge sits on heavy clay that drains slowly, so surface water has nowhere to go quickly. A channel drain at the base of the driveway or a permeable surface prevents pooling and protects the sub-base from saturation. The survey will assess the existing drainage and recommend what is needed. See Driveway Drainage & Channel Drains.

Yes, but shared-access arrangements need careful planning around working hours, temporary access routes, and any legal agreements tied to the shared area. The contractor will confirm the scope of work and access requirements during the survey so that neighbours are not blocked without notice.

Not always. A lower price often reflects a thinner sub-base or cheaper aggregate, which shortens the lifespan and raises maintenance costs. A correctly built driveway with adequate depth and drainage costs more upfront but avoids resurfacing within a few years.

Repair makes sense when damage is localised and the sub-base is sound. If the base has failed or damage covers a large area, repairs are a short-term fix that rarely lasts. A survey confirms sub-base condition before any recommendation is made. See Driveway Repairs & Restoration for more detail.

Tarmac is fast to lay and cost-effective for larger areas. Block paving allows individual unit replacement and suits period properties. Gravel is the lowest upfront cost but needs raking and topping up. Concrete is durable but harder to repair. The right choice depends on budget, appearance, and how much maintenance you want.

Often yes. Loose gravel migrates and needs regular raking. Thin tarmac cracks sooner and requires patching. Block paving laid without a proper sub-base shifts and weeds push through. Spending more on preparation reduces ongoing maintenance regardless of the surface chosen.

Resin bound is the lowest-maintenance option: the bound aggregate does not scatter, weeds cannot push through, and it needs only an occasional wash. Tarmac is close behind. Block paving and gravel require the most regular attention to joints, weeds, and surface level. See Resin Bound Driveways for more.

Concrete and block paving have the longest potential lifespan, often exceeding 20 years when laid on a sound sub-base. Tarmac typically lasts 15 to 20 years with periodic sealing. Resin bound surfaces generally last 15 to 25 years. Gravel has an indefinite lifespan but needs regular topping up.

A well-built driveway should last 15 to 25 years depending on the surface and how it is maintained. Sub-base quality is the single biggest factor: a surface laid on a poorly compacted base will fail in a fraction of that time regardless of the material used.

If long-term cost matters, yes. Block paving allows individual units to be lifted and replaced without disturbing the whole surface. Tarmac can be patched, though patches are visible. Resin bound and concrete are harder to repair invisibly. For a rental property or high-traffic area, repairability is worth factoring into the choice.

On clay-heavy ground, a permeable surface reduces standing water and may remove the need for planning permission on larger areas. Resin bound and permeable block paving both allow water to pass through to a sub-base designed to hold and release it slowly. They cost more upfront but reduce drainage problems over time. See Permeable Driveways.

Most residential driveways take one to three days from excavation to finished surface. You will not be able to use the drive while work is in progress or during the curing period, which varies by material. Tarmac is typically walkable within hours; block paving is ready sooner than resin bound, which needs 24 hours to cure.

The crew needs clear access for a skip or grab lorry to remove excavated material, and space to bring in sub-base aggregate. Spoil and dust are unavoidable during excavation but are cleared as work progresses. Neighbouring paths and planted areas are protected where possible.

Tarmac benefits from a sealcoat every few years. Block paving needs occasional re-sanding of joints and weed treatment. Resin bound surfaces need only periodic washing. Gravel requires raking and topping up annually. All surfaces last longer with prompt attention to any drainage issues.

No. Cambridgeshire Driveways is a lead-generation brand. We take your enquiry and arrange a local independent driveway contractor to survey the site and quote the job. The contractor carries out all physical work.

We do not charge for arranging the survey. The contractor will confirm their own survey terms when they make contact. No work is committed until you have accepted a written quote.

Chalk, clay and fen peat each behave differently under load. Peat compresses and shifts; clay expands and contracts with moisture. A contractor who assesses the actual sub-base before quoting can specify the correct excavation depth and compaction method for the conditions at your property.

A failing sub-base gets worse with each winter frost and wet season. Block paving that has already sunk on a soft base will continue to drop, and water pooling at the kerb can undermine the base further. Early assessment limits the excavation depth and cost needed to correct it.

Front driveways over 5 square metres using a non-permeable surface generally require planning permission. Permeable surfaces, resin bound aggregate, permeable block paving, are usually exempt. Dropped kerb access requires a separate application to Cambridgeshire County Council. The contractor checks both at survey stage.

The approximate area in square metres, the existing surface material, how the driveway currently drains, and whether the kerb needs dropping. If you know the sub-base history, for example, if it was laid on bare hardcore, include that too.

Pooling usually means the surface falls are wrong, the channel drain is blocked or lifted, or the ground beneath has moved. Laying a new surface without fixing the fall or drainage fault means the same problem returns. The survey checks falls and drainage connections before any surface work is quoted.

Yes. Highway consent under Section 184 of the Highways Act 1980 must be obtained from Cambridgeshire County Council before any kerb lowering begins. Submitting after the driveway is laid adds weeks and can mean the crossing is in the wrong position. The survey flags this requirement at the outset.

The quote covers excavation, sub-base, drainage and surface finish as separate line items, so the scope is clear before work begins. A base condition survey is carried out first specifically to identify any ground issues, such as soft clay or an undersized existing sub-base, before they become mid-job surprises.

A driveway laid on unprepared Cambridge clay or fen peat sinks further with each wet winter. Ignoring drainage causes water to track toward the garage threshold or house. A surface that looks patchable now often needs full excavation and sub-base replacement once movement has progressed, a significantly larger job.

Most front driveways in England do not need planning permission if the surface is permeable, or if run-off drains to a lawn or border rather than the highway. Impermeable surfaces over 5 square metres do require permission. Your local authority can confirm the rule for your specific plot.

If your property does not already have a vehicle crossover, you need council approval for a dropped kerb before any driveway work begins. Driving over an unmodified kerb is illegal and can invalidate your car insurance. See Dropped Kerbs & Access for how the process works.

If excavation reveals poor ground, tree roots, or unexpected drainage issues, the contractor will stop and explain the options before continuing. Any change to scope or cost is agreed with you first. The pre-work survey reduces the likelihood of surprises, but ground conditions can only be fully confirmed once digging starts.