Gravel Driveways in Cambridge

Loose gravel will migrate without proper edging and a stable sub-base, but both can be installed to contain it. Solid edging boards or kerbing along every boundary hold the stones back. Choosing a smaller angular gravel, such as 10mm or 14mm crushed stone, also reduces scatter compared with large rounded pebbles.

A well-built gravel driveway needs at least 100mm of compacted MOT Type 1 sub-base beneath the gravel layer. On softer ground, 150mm is more appropriate. Skipping or thinning the sub-base is the most common reason driveways sink, so the depth is agreed at the survey stage before any work begins.

Soft or uneven ground needs excavation to a stable level, followed by a compacted hardcore or MOT Type 1 sub-base. In very soft spots, a geotextile membrane is laid first to prevent the sub-base mixing with the soil below. The site survey identifies how much excavation is needed before the quote is issued.

Gravel drains freely because water passes straight through the stones and into the sub-base below. This makes it one of the most naturally permeable driveway surfaces available and means it generally meets permitted development drainage rules without additional drainage channels. Heavy clay ground beneath may need extra drainage provision.

Expect to rake the surface back level once or twice a year and top up the gravel every few years as stones are displaced or compacted down. A weed-control membrane laid beneath the gravel reduces weeding significantly. Compared with block paving or resin, ongoing maintenance is low-cost and straightforward.

Gravel suits older and period properties well because it looks natural and avoids the hard, uniform appearance of tarmac or block paving. Cotswold, flint, and slate chippings all complement traditional brickwork. It also avoids the planning constraints that sometimes apply to hard impermeable surfaces on front gardens.

Stability comes from three things: a compacted sub-base, a geotextile membrane to stop migration, and plastic or metal gravel grids laid over the membrane before the gravel is poured in. The grids lock stones in individual cells so they cannot shift under foot or tyre pressure, giving a much firmer feel.

Concrete kerbing, treated timber boards, or steel edging strips all work well. The choice depends on the look you want and the boundary conditions. Concrete kerbing is the most durable; timber suits informal gardens; steel gives a clean modern edge. All three are installed as part of the groundwork before gravel is laid. See Driveway Edging & Kerbing for more detail.